It's cookie season: Here's one that satisfies soft and crunchy fans | Taste, the Santa Fe dining scene | santafenewmexican.com

2022-10-26 13:59:49 By : Ms. Cathy Wang

Oatmeal chocolate, Red Chile and Sea Salt Cookies

Oatmeal chocolate, red chile and sea salt cookies

Oatmeal chocolate, red chile and sea salt cookies

Oatmeal chocolate, red chile and sea salt cookies

Oatmeal chocolate, red chile and sea salt cookies

Oatmeal chocolate, Red Chile and Sea Salt Cookies

Oatmeal chocolate, red chile and sea salt cookies

Oatmeal chocolate, red chile and sea salt cookies

Oatmeal chocolate, red chile and sea salt cookies

Only a few days ago, my family and I were strolling through the farmers market, peeling off layers of clothes as the sun rose high into the air while we looked for apples, poblanos and pumpkins. Now, as I’m writing this, tiny flakes of snow are falling outside my window, disappearing as soon as they hit the ground. My dog, Saturn, who normally is outside searching for a sunny nap spot, is laying across my legs, keeping me warm. (Or am I keeping him warm?) Either way, fall in Santa Fe has boldly landed.

In the summer months, I almost never make, or even think about, cookies. Then as soon as fall arrives, cookies reemerge on my radar, becoming an important part of our fall routine. We have family traditions like gingerbreads and sugar cookies at Christmas, hot cocoa or tea whenever we’ve been out in the snow for more than 15 minutes, and some kind of chocolate chip cookie weaved throughout for movie nights or just when we feel like something sweet and warm from the oven.

I know everyone has their cookie favorites — soft and chewy or thin and crispy, nuts or no nuts, etc. I’m usually a crispy cookie fan, but because I live with three people who prefer soft and chewy, I set out to make a cookie just for them. I have to admit, I’m shocked at how much I love this cookie. It’s crisp on the outside, with a chewy bite on the inside. I added oats, mild red chile flakes and chocolate, but you can add any combination of these additions that work for you. If I were making these just for me, I would have absolutely added some pecans. In this recipe, there are two cups of what I like to call “additions,” the oats and chocolate. Follow your tastebuds and add any combination of chocolate, oats, dried fruit or nuts that sound good to you.

So what makes a cookie chewy? For starters, I added bread flour, which contains higher levels of protein, in addition to the all-purpose flour; it encourages chew over crisp. I skipped the baking powder, which encourages cookies to spread out, and instead increased the baking soda, which helps the cookies rise. And I used more brown sugar than granulated, which adds moisture.

You’ll notice that in the ingredient list, both flours are listed first by the weight. When it comes to weighing ingredients, I keep a small digital scale in the kitchen and bring it out only when I’m baking, and even then, only when it matters. Some people would argue all ingredients in pastry recipes should be weighed. But for the most part, I find flour is the pesky ingredient that, when poured or scooped in a measuring cup, can vary greatly depending on fluffiness or density. This can result in varying degrees of accuracy or inaccuracy, and because of this, weighing is the best way to go for consistent baking success.

One of the best things about cookie dough is how well it freezes. Imagine a chilly night when you’re tired after a long day, and being able to pop a few frozen cookies into the oven. Warm, freshly baked cookies at your fingertips! Let’s say you want to double this recipe and freeze half, or let’s say you want to only bake the cookies you plan on eating and freeze the rest. Here’s what to do: Scoop the cookies as you normally would onto a baking sheet or plastic tray that can lay flat in your freezer. Sprinkle a little flaky salt on each cookie and transfer to the freezer for around 45 minutes, or until they are frozen solid. Remove the tray from the freezer and transfer the frozen cookies to a freezer-safe container or bag. Label them with the name and the date, and bake them within three months. When you’re ready to bake them, you can either lay them out on a lined baking sheet, defrost them overnight in the fridge and bake at 350 degrees for around 15 minutes, or you can bake them straight from frozen at 325 degrees for 25 minutes, keeping an eye of them, as each oven heats slightly differently.

Oatmeal chocolate, red chile and sea salt cookies

2 sticks (1 cup) unsalted butter, at room temperature

2 teaspoons vanilla extract or paste

Flaky sea salt, for garnish

Preparation: Preheat your oven to 350 degrees and line a baking sheet or two with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the all-purpose flour, bread flour, chile flakes, baking soda and sea salt until thoroughly combined.

This next step you can do with a large bowl and a whisk, or a stand or electric mixer. Whisk together the butter, granulated sugar, brown sugar, vanilla and eggs until light, fluffy and creamy looking. Now, over low speed, add the flour mixture to the butter mixture until well combined. Then add the chocolate chips and oats, mixing again until all the ingredients are incorporated throughout.

Using a scoop or two spoons, scoop the cookie dough onto your prepared baking sheets, making sure to leave at least 1 inch of room around each cookie for baking. Sprinkle a pinch of flaky sea salt on the top of each cookie and bake for 12-15 minutes, removing the cookies when they have just turned a golden brown and are set in the center, meaning if you lightly touch the top of the cookie, it will feel slightly soft but firm enough not to deflate the top of the cookie. Enjoy warm once cool enough to handle, or store in an air-tight container once they are completely cooled to room temperature.

Marianne Sundquist is a chef and writer who in 2020 co-founded Stokli, an online general store. Email her at marianne@stokli.com.

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