Frito pies, four dollar burgers, pumpkin dumplings, and more

The amount of excellent food available in New York City is dizzying — even during a pandemic — yet mediocre meals somehow keep worming their way into our lives. With Eater editors dining out sometimes several times a day, we do come across lots of standout dishes, and we don’t want to keep any secrets. Check back weekly for the best things we ate this week — so you can, too.

In the Midwest, it’s the walking taco. In the mid-Atlantic, it’s taco in a bag. In Texas, it’s Frito pie, and at Billy Durney’s acclaimed hill country barbecue hall, it’s the best stab at this nostalgic treat New York has yet to see. Deep crimson Texas chili laced with tender strands of smoked brisket is ladled into a bag of Fritos that’s been slit down the belly to expose the crunchy corn chips within. A lava flow of queso flecked with that same brisket follows. And to counter all that saucy savory energy with a bit of heat and welcomed acidity, the team finishes the dish with tart pickled jalapeno and slivered red onions, along with a drizzle of chipotle lime crema. Call it what you want, but this humble regional classic is a crowd favorite for a reason and Hometown proves it has a place here in the northeast. 454 Van Brunt Street, at Reed Street, Red Hook — Nat Belkov, design director

I was only halfway through my order of pumpkin dumplings when the owner of A-Pou’s Taste asked me whether I wanted to sing a song. These sort of questions aren’t as unusual as you might think when you dine alone at restaurants as often as I do, and in fact, a server at El Rey del Pescado in Sunset Park asked me the same thing last month. Now, like then, I obliged. The experience is part of how A-Pou’s ended up on our guide to Williamsburg’s best restaurants right now, but rest assured the food more than holds up. The pumpkin dumplings, chewy and slightly charred, came five to an order for $4. I left with the memory of their sweet filling — and a song sheet the owner handed to me on my way out. “To practice,” they said. 963 Grand Street, between Catherine Street and Morgan Avenue, Williamsburg — Luke Fortney, reporter

The HK Supermarket food court in Elmhurst is a work in progress, with half the stalls occupied as the market is refurbished. The one that attracted my eye was this counter offering food from Myanmar. Seven typical dishes are tendered, plus snacks, including the namesake stew (and national signature dish) mohinga. It comes in a white plastic bowl with a fish broth said to be boiled with ginger and garlic, during which time the fish reduces itself to fragments that are eventually mashed. Aromatics like lemongrass and cilantro are added, then finally the rice noodles and crunchy fritters made from chickpea flour are tossed in. The soup ($10, plus $1 more for an egg) is ultra-customizable, and customers pride themselves in a nuanced choice of add-ins. 82-02 45th Avenue, at 82nd Street, Elmhurst — Robert Sietsema, senior critic

Hand Hospitality boasts quite a collection of prix fixe restaurants; the group counts Atoboy, Atomix, Jua, and LittleMad under its larger umbrella. And even though each of these ambitious (and not-cheap) modern Korean venues are located fairly close to one another in greater Midtown, most manage to fill up on any given night. A bustling crowd packed LittleMad on a recent Wednesday; the narrow space was filled with patrons willing to pay $75 for a five-course tasting before tax, tip, and supplements. I was particularly fond of the half lobster with tomalley fried rice. Chef Sol Han, an alum of Le Coucou, and his crew made a predictably buttery affair out of the tail, but the kitchen also stuffed a pile of rice into the body cavity. Mixed with the lobster’s tasty guts, the grains took on a wonderful creaminess and maybe just a whisper of funk. And honestly, the dish still has two more elements (a kimchi salad and a lobster-y soup) that I’m leaving out! 110 Madison Avenue, near East 30th Street, Midtown — Ryan Sutton, chief critic

I thought I was going to go apple picking this weekend, but forgot to check the weather and woke up to rain. Being able to borrow a car in NYC is such a rare special treat for me that I made a day out of it anyway. After doing some thrifting on Long Island, I parked at All-American Drive-In, a burger spot that’s been open since the 1960s. Prices seem to have remained largely a relic of the past themselves: The quarter pounder with cheese I got was only $4.20. For an easy-peasy on-the-go meal that felt a little more special than just going to a nearby McDonald’s, I highly recommend snarfing one down, guzzling a Coke in the other hand, and staying cozy in (someone else’s) car while it pours. 4286 Merrick Road, at West End Avenue, Massapequa — Emma Orlow, reporter

The shiny and pointy betel leaf is common in Indian and Vietnamese cooking, but I’d never seen it before in Thai food. At newcomer Mitr Thai just south of Rockefeller Center, it appears along with dried shrimp in wonderful fritters called goong pae bai chaphu ($14), in a recipe from Thailand’s Malay Peninsula. Hot from the fat, they are briny and crunchy, with the subtle astringent flavor betel leaves confer. Betel leaves also appear on the side, for wrapping morsels of fritter. A sweet chile-peanut sauce accompanies. 37 West 46th Street, between Fifth and Sixth avenues, Midtown — Robert Sietsema, senior critic

Every time an iPhone flashes in a New York restaurant, an angel loses its wings. Still, there are times when it can’t be avoided: You’re the @theviplistnyc at a Jean-Georges restaurant, for example, or me sitting across from this tián miàntuán at Win Son two weeks ago. The dessert looks like an ordinary ice cream sandwich in the dark, but bust out the flashlight app and all sorts of surprises await. A block of sesame ice cream is held in place by two pieces of fried dough that are drenched in condensed milk ($13), plus butter-fried peanuts and cilantro if you pay two dollars more. (Pay two dollars more.) I’m not sure if it was the flash or the dessert that interrupted the breakup happening to our right, but thank god it did! 159 Graham Avenue, at Montrose Avenue, Williamsburg — Luke Fortney, reporter

In case anyone’s wondering what a prix-fixe Modern Korean spot looks like at 10:00 p.m. on a Friday, let me paint a Carbone-esque picture with Atoboy: Just about every seat is filled, with a line to see the host practically snaking out the door. An apologetic staffer checks in on three smartly dressed patrons waiting for their reservation, explaining that the party before them has overstayed their welcome. Lucky for me, walk-in counter seating wasn’t tough to snag, and the result was this: a very tasty composition of raw shellfish. The kitchen, under the auspices of chef Junghyun Park, slathers scallops in enough XO sauce to qualify as dip. The condiment imparts the mollusks with a kick of heat and a wallop of funk, while Cara Cara oranges cut through the musk with a bit of fragrant brightness. Cost: $75 for the five-course menu, service included. 43 East 28th Street, near Park Avenue, Midtown — Ryan Sutton, chief critic

There is something magical about dining during a rainstorm at Nougatine, Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s sleek dining room in the Trump Tower, with the twinkling lights of skyscrapers as the across-the-table backdrop. On this visit, I shared a collection of starters with friends — sea trout crispy sushi, a near-perfect tuna tartare, citrus-layered chicory salad — followed by a shared veal Milanese. It’s rare that dessert makes the experience better; usually, I’ve eaten too much to care or the selection can be underwhelming. In the case of this butterscotch pudding ($16) with sea-salt caramel and shortbread cookies on the side, it was a dessert that enhanced an already memorable meal. 1 Central Park West, near W. 60th Street and Broadway, Upper West Side — Melissa McCart, interim editor

Since fall is here, I’m trying to soak up all the outdoor dining while the weather still permits. I had passed by Leland Eating and Drinking House recently and saw they had these grey wool blankets at their set-up. While last night I luckily didn’t need one, I still wanted something a little warm and cozy while I ate dinner with a friend. The chicken jook porridge was just what I was looking for: comforting, fatty chicken broth, with spice from the chile oil. At $14, it felt like plenty for an entree. 755 Dean Street, at Underhill Avenue, Prospect Heights — Emma Orlow, reporter

I’m happy to revisit Little Myanmar to make my way through the menu, but two dishes I’ll keep on my rotation are the mohinga, a fragrant fish noodle soup ($14) that’s laced with ginger, lemongrass, paprika, and turmeric then sprinkled with crushed chiles and a hit of lime just before slurping. I’m also smitten with the lemon salad, a pile of peeled citrus with fish paste, fried onions, and cabbage ($15). Can you tell I love acid? 150 E. 2nd Street, near Avenue A, East Village — Melissa McCart, interim editor

There are dozens of variations on NYC’s classic BEC, but this may be the most opulent. Little Kirin arrived on St. Mark’s Place in July, serving a combination of heros, bowls, and breakfast sandwiches, often with Vietnamese and Japanese flourishes, creating a menu with lots of unique dishes, including a sandwich version of pho. The Hangover Cure ($10) is the name of a breakfast sandwich that layers fried eggs, bacon, American cheese, a crunchy layer of hash browns, and spam on a round puffy roll. It’s the perfect remedy for that throbbing headache from last night’s excesses, and every bite is a multi-textural delight. 81 St. Mark’s Place, between First and Second avenues, East Village — Robert Sietsema, senior critic

Last week, I decided that for once I was going to try my luck as a walk-in for a new restaurant, Tonchin Brooklyn, which looked great but hadn’t been getting a ton of hype. It was a Tuesday, after all... or so I thought. Despite the fact that I am well aware of today’s current reservation culture, I still played myself! It was cold that night and my boyfriend and I had our hearts set on noodle soup, so we walked over to the nearby Vietnamese spot Bolero, where the was plenty of space for the reservation-less. While the vibe in there was definitely more brightly lit and less vibey than the date I had envisioned, the vegetarian spicy lemongrass noodle soup ($17) was ultimately what we both needed anyway. The noodles had the right amount of chewiness and the soup was packed with so many hearty ingredients — from tofu to king oyster mushrooms — that it helped make up for the switch (kind of). 177 Bedford Avenue, between North Seventh and Eighth streets, Williamsburg — Emma Orlow, reporter

My friends have been hard at work this last month, fine-tuning their rosters of prospective lovers in anticipation of cuffing season. I’m slacking, if you ask them, but behind the scenes I’ve been soul-searching for the borough’s best xiao long bao, a more stable partner (in my experience) when it comes to the fall and winter months. Such is the tragic tale of how I ended up at M Shanghai, a sleeper hit of a restaurant whose dining room was almost empty around lunchtime last week, save for the delivery workers flowing in and out of its front door. Soup dumplings come six to an order ($9), larger than most with thick wrappers that leave you with lots to chew on. The pork nectar inside is rich and fatty; one order per person is all you need. 292 Grand Street, between Roebling and Havemeyer streets, Williamsburg — Luke Fortney, reporter

We’re back in office, sort of, meaning my search for lunch under $10 rages on. The Financial District, an uninspiring food neighborhood on its face, is chock-full of food carts in this category, including Sam’s Falafel, where $9 gets you a falafel platter with lots of sides, and the excellent Banh Mi Cart, serving $8 sandwiches on Hanover Square. Best among them must be Indian King Biryani House, a cart whose line speaks for itself. Nine dollars gets you a takeout tray with tender chicken, rice tasting of saffron, a side salad shoved into one corner, and lots of sauce (be sure to get all three). The samosas to the right ($6) probably weren’t necessary, and technically nudged me over $10, but at a dollar apiece they were too hard to pass on. Welp, back to my desk. Southeast corner of Broadway and Liberty Street, Financial District — Luke Fortney, reporter

The new owners at S&P (the former Eisenberg’s) have certainly done their research. They have resurrected a type of New York City restaurant that originated in the early 19th century and became predominant a century ago — the lunch counter. These original fast-food spots served up sandwiches, soups, and other modest fare along a counter with no-nonsense stools, guaranteeing quick turnover. One retrograde treat that S&P gets right is the cheeseburger. Theirs is a thin seared patty with American cheese, raw onions, pickle chips, and mustard instead of mayo or ketchup (or some sort of disgusting “special sauce”). This historic condiment keeps the burger on the savory side and adds a welcome tart note that doesn’t upstage the beefiness. The balance of elements is perfect, and this cheeseburger ($8) is the best I’ve tasted this year. Wash it down with a chocolate egg cream. 175 Fifth Avenue, between 22nd and 23rd streets, Flatiron District — Robert Sietsema, senior critic

It rained Sunday when Taqueria Ramírez popped up at Tørst. In fact, it rained all weekend, which made this already delicious frijoles charros ($12) even more soul-nourishing. Seeking refuge from the elements, I huddled over a blue corn gordita stuffed with pork skin and queso cremoso, along with this piping hot bowl of stewy beans, chorizo, bacon and tomato, topped with cilantro and a couple shards of crunchy chicharron. How, with standard galley kitchen equipment, they imbued the guajillo chile-fortified chicken broth with the smokey savor of a raging campfire, I do not know. With a few pop-ups under their belts now, the Ramírez team is showing us just how agile and creative they are in the kitchen, which is a surprise to no one. Keep ’em coming! 615 Manhattan Avenue, near Nassau Avenue, Greenpoint — Nat Belkov, design director

I was relieved when a court delayed New York’s misguided foie gras ban last month. Don’t get me wrong, I’ll take a nice plate of sauteed ramps any day of the week over fatty liver, which isn’t something I eat more than once or twice a year. But I still get excited when a couple of chefs can find a way to make this rich, old-school delicacy taste light and new. Enter Ignacio Mattos and Vincent D’Ambrosio of Corner Bar. The kitchen layers the $32 foie in between strips of jiggly tete de cochon. If this were a sandwich, the pig’s head would be the meat, and the impossibly airy foie, the mayo. A spoonful of Sauternes gelée sits on the side, as does a quenelle of nectarine puree, to counteract all the carnivorous opulence with some necessary plant-based perfume. I can’t wait to try it again — in maybe six months or so. 60 Canal Street, at Allen Street, Lower East Side — Ryan Sutton, chief critic

I’m smitten with savory and sweet souffles and delighted that they’re making a comeback. I love this one from the newly opened Koloman in Nomad, an elegant, arts-and-crafts about-face from the dark-and-clubby Breslin. Layered with aged cheddar and Pleasant Ridge Reserve, served with a side of mushroom jam, this souffle ($26) is lovely to share as one of a collection of dishes or as a main with a salad compose: market greens, radishes, and a citrus vinaigrette ($17). 16 W. 29th Street, near Sixth Avenue, Nomad — Melissa McCart, interim editor

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